Morocco Without the Hard Sell
The medinas are loud, the hustle is real and the hospitality is even more real. How to enjoy the chaos instead of fighting it.
Within ten minutes of walking into the medina in Marrakech, someone will helpfully tell you that the main square is closed today and offer to show you the way to somewhere better. The square is not closed. It is never closed. Smile, say no thank you, keep walking. You have just passed your first Moroccan exam.
Lean into the medina
The old walled cities are dense, noisy and gloriously disorienting. Getting lost is part of it. Every lane eventually leads back to a gate or a landmark, and shopkeepers will usually point you the right way. At night, Jemaa el-Fnaa, the big square in Marrakech, turns into an open air restaurant of smoke, music and storytellers. Go at least once.
Stay in a riad
A riad is a traditional house built around an inner courtyard, and many have been turned into small guesthouses. Step through an unremarkable door in a busy alley and suddenly it is quiet, tiled and cool, with mint tea on the way. It is the best antidote to the chaos outside.
On haggling
Bargaining is expected in the souks, and it works best when you treat it as a conversation rather than a fight. Decide what something is worth to you before you ask the price. Be friendly. Be willing to walk away. If you end up paying a little more than a local would, that is usually fine. Someone's livelihood is on the other side of that table.
Get out of the city
- The Atlas Mountains: an easy escape from Marrakech, with Berber villages, walnut groves and trails for every level.
- The Sahara: the dunes of Erg Chebbi near Merzouga are a long drive, but a night in a desert camp under the stars is hard to forget.
- Fes: its old medina is one of the largest car free urban areas in the world. Hire a guide for at least a morning.
- Essaouira: a breezy, laid back coastal town that feels like a deep breath after Marrakech.
Worth knowing
Dress modestly, particularly outside the big tourist areas. Check whether your dates fall during Ramadan, when daytime rhythms change. And accept every glass of mint tea you are offered. It is how almost every good conversation in Morocco begins.
